Mississippi Beyond the Blues: A Journey Through Clarksdale, Greenwood and Jackson
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All opinions expressed in this post are my own.
Some trips are all about relaxation. Others are about ticking off the famous sights, taking a few photographs and heading home with a suitcase full of souvenirs.
And then there are the trips that get under your skin.
My journey through Mississippi is was one of those trips. It was a journey filled with extraordinary music, Southern hospitality, delicious food, beautiful historic buildings and experiences that left me thinking long after we had moved on to the next stop.
I found myself confronting some deeply uncomfortable history, learning things I hadn't fully appreciated before and discovering just how much there is to Mississippi beyond the familiar images of blues musicians and the American Deep South.
We explored Clarksdale, Greenwood and Jackson, travelling through the Mississippi Delta and discovering the stories that have shaped this part of America.
There was the excitement of visiting places associated with films I love, including The Help. There were museums that brought the civil rights movement into sharp focus. There were plates of Southern food, unexpected adventures and a night in Jackson when I found myself singing live on stage.
For me, this trip brought together so many of the things I love about travel: music, history, culture, food and the chance to experience somewhere beyond the obvious tourist attractions.
But I also want to be honest about the difficult parts. Mississippi's history cannot be separated from slavery, segregation, racism and the violence inflicted on Black Americans. I don't believe we should gloss over that history simply because we're writing about out travels.
You can appreciate a destination's beauty and hospitality while acknowledging its painful past. In fact, I think doing both makes for a much more meaningful travel experience.
So, here's my journey through Mississippi: the places we visited, the experiences I loved, the moments that moved me and the things I think you should know before planning your own trip.
Why Mississippi? A lifelong love of music
I've loved blues, Motown and country music since I was a little girl. Music has always been a huge part of my life, and I spent more than ten years singing in a choir.
Even now, certain songs can take me straight back to a particular time in my life. Music can make you feel something before you've even had time to put that feeling into words.
That is one of the reasons I was so excited about visiting Mississippi.
The state is central to the development of the Delta blues, a musical tradition that emerged from African American communities in the American South. Artists including Muddy Waters, Charley Patton, Sam Cooke, Son House and Robert Johnson helped shape a sound that would go on to influence generations of musicians around the world.
But I didn't want to visit Mississippi simply to listen to blues music in a famous venue.
I wanted to understand the people and places behind it.
The blues developed within communities shaped by slavery's legacy, sharecropping, poverty, racial discrimination and extraordinary resilience. To appreciate the music properly, I believe it is important to understand the history that surrounds it.
Mississippi also played a pivotal role in the American civil rights movement, and its history includes some of the most disturbing examples of racial violence in modern American history.
I wanted to explore both sides of the story: the music that has travelled across the world and the difficult history that visitors should not ignore.
What I discovered was a state far more complex, fascinating and emotionally powerful than a simple travel itinerary could ever convey.
Clarksdale, Mississippi: Discovering the home of the Delta blues
Our journey began in Clarksdale, a small city in the Mississippi Delta with an enormous musical legacy.
Clarksdale has long been associated with the blues, and the surrounding region helped shape a musical tradition that influenced rock and roll, soul and countless other genres.
There is something quite special about arriving somewhere you have heard about for years and finally being able to explore it for yourself.
For me, Clarksdale was one of those places.
I have listened to blues music since childhood, but being in the Delta gave me a new appreciation for the landscape and the people behind the songs.
Visiting the Delta Blues Museum
One of our stops was the Delta Blues Museum, which opened in 1979 and is recognised as Mississippi's oldest music museum.
The museum explores the history of the blues through exhibits about musicians, instruments and the cultural influences that shaped the genre.
I loved the opportunity to explore more of the history behind music I have listened to for so many years.
There is a difference between enjoying a song and understanding where that song came from. Learning about the Delta blues gave me a greater appreciation of the experiences, communities and musical traditions that helped shape it.
The blues is often associated with heartbreak, hardship and sadness, but I think that is only part of the story. There is humour, defiance, creativity and joy in the music, too.
It is a way of telling stories and expressing emotions that can be difficult to articulate in ordinary conversation.
What struck me most was how something so deeply rooted in a particular part of America became an influence on musicians around the world.
I came away feeling that I understood a little more about the music I have loved since childhood, and that made visiting Clarksdale particularly special.
The Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale, Mississippi, is a must-visit for anyone wanting to discover the history and heritage of the blues. Located in the heart of the Mississippi Delta, the museum celebrates the musicians, stories and sounds that shaped one of America's most influential musical genres.
Through an impressive collection of photographs, instruments, memorabilia and interactive exhibits, visitors can explore the lives of legendary blues artists and understand how the music grew out of the experiences of African Americans in the Deep South. It is more than a museum; it is a journey into the cultural soul of Mississippi, where the blues remains an important part of the region's identity.
One of the highlights is the reconstructed cabin where Muddy Waters once lived on Stovall Plantation, complete with a lifelike figure of the blues legend. Other fascinating exhibits celebrate artists including B.B. King, John Lee Hooker and Son House, bringing their stories and musical legacies to life. Housed in a historic 1918 railway freight depot, the museum is an essential stop for anyone exploring the Mississippi Blues Trail.
Dockery Farms: Where the landscape tells a story
We visited Dockery Farms, a historic agricultural site near Cleveland, Mississippi, widely associated with the origins of the Delta blues.
The former cotton plantation and sawmill became an important part of the region's agricultural history and is closely connected with musicians such as Charley Patton.
There was something about the landscape that stayed with me.
Dockery Farms, often described as the birthplace of the Delta blues, is a historic site situated between Cleveland and Ruleville in the Mississippi Delta. Established in 1895 by Will Dockery, this enormous cotton plantation and sawmill eventually became a thriving community, home to thousands of workers and their families. But its legacy extends far beyond agriculture. It was here that legendary blues musician Charley Patton lived, worked and developed his distinctive sound, influencing generations of musicians, including Howlin’ Wolf, Son House and Willie Brown.
Walking around the historic site today, you can explore the original buildings, including the old cotton gin, plantation store and remnants of the community that once stood here. The Mississippi Blues Trail marker tells the story of how African American workers, through their experiences, struggles and musical traditions, helped shape a genre that would go on to influence music around the world. Standing here, surrounded by the quiet Delta landscape, it's remarkable to think that this small corner of Mississippi helped change the history of American music.
At first glance, it can seem peaceful. The fields stretch towards the horizon, the roads run through the countryside and the buildings sit quietly within their surroundings.
But the history is much more complicated than the scenery might suggest.
Cotton production in Mississippi was inseparable from the history of slavery and, after emancipation, exploitative systems of sharecropping and racial inequality. The people who created the blues lived and worked within this wider history.
I think it is important to acknowledge that reality rather than romanticise the Delta as a picturesque musical landscape.
The music is extraordinary, but so are the stories of the people who created it.
For me, visiting Dockery Farms helped bring those connections into focus. It was a reminder that places can be beautiful and historically difficult at the same time.
Ground Zero Blues Club: Keeping the music alive
Clarksdale is home to Ground Zero Blues Club, a well-known venue associated with the city's blues culture partly owned by actor Morgan Freeman.
One of the things I enjoyed about Clarksdale was that the blues was not confined to museums and historical displays.
Ground Zero Blues Club in Clarksdale, Mississippi, is more than just a music venue; it is an institution celebrating the soul of the Mississippi Delta. Co-founded by actor Morgan Freeman and entrepreneur Bill Luckett in 2001, the club has become one of the region's most famous destinations for live blues music. Located in a former cotton warehouse, its deliberately rustic interior, with exposed brickwork, corrugated metal and walls covered in memorabilia, captures the authentic spirit of the Delta.
The club opened in May 2001, with Morgan Freeman, Bill Luckett and Howard Stovall behind the venture, creating a space where visitors could experience authentic Delta blues and support the musicians keeping the tradition alive. Today, it continues to showcase talented local and visiting artists, with live performances bringing the venue to life. Thursday's Jam Night is particularly special, inviting musicians to get up on stage and join in. Alongside the music, there's a menu of Southern comfort food, including fried catfish and traditional favourites.
Whether you're there for dinner, a drink or an evening of live music, Ground Zero offers an opportunity to experience Clarksdale's musical heritage rather than simply read about it.
It remains part of the town's cultural identity.
That distinction matters. Music is not simply something to preserve behind glass. It continues to evolve through musicians, venues and audiences who keep the tradition alive.
If you are planning a trip to Clarksdale, I would recommend combining the museums and historical sites with opportunities to experience live music. Understanding the history is important, but hearing music performed in the place where its traditions developed adds another dimension to the experience.
Coffee, breakfast, barbecue and a taste of Clarksdale
There is something lovely about starting the day with a proper Southern breakfast, and Our Grandma's House of Pancakes in downtown Clarksdale was just the place. We headed to this popular local eatery for a hearty breakfast before another day exploring the Mississippi Delta.
Walking inside, I immediately got a sense of the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. It felt like the sort of neighbourhood restaurant where locals and visitors sit alongside one another, sharing breakfast and conversation. The name itself brings to mind the comfort of home cooking and traditional family recipes.
The menu features American breakfast favourites, including fluffy pancakes, eggs cooked to order, bacon, sausage, hash browns, grits and omelettes, alongside burgers and other lunchtime classics.
I opted for a bacon and cheese omelette, a classic breakfast choice and just what I fancied to start the day. It was a lovely change from some of the bigger, sweeter American breakfast options, and a satisfying way to fuel up for our adventures. But, I did order blueberry pancakes too.
What I particularly enjoyed about stopping here was getting to experience a little of everyday life in Clarksdale. The Mississippi Delta is famous for its blues heritage, but its food culture is another important part of understanding the region. This wasn't about fine dining or elaborate presentation; it was about enjoying a relaxed breakfast in a welcoming local restaurant.
Situated in downtown Clarksdale, it is a convenient stop before visiting attractions such as the Delta Blues Museum and exploring the city's musical history. Sometimes, discovering a destination is as much about sitting down for breakfast with the locals as it is about visiting its famous landmarks.
We made time for Meraki Roasting Company.
It was an opportunity to experience a different side of Clarksdale, away from the major historical attractions.
Meraki Roasting Company in Clarksdale, Mississippi, is a lovely independent coffee shop offering a welcoming place to stop and recharge while exploring the Mississippi Delta. With a passion for quality coffee and locally inspired hospitality, it provides a more contemporary contrast to the area's historic blues attractions. Whether you're looking for a freshly brewed coffee, a morning pick-me-up or somewhere to pause between sightseeing, Meraki is a great little find.
What makes Meraki particularly special, however, is its community mission. The coffee roastery is part of Griot Arts, a local non-profit organisation that provides young people in the Mississippi Delta with employment opportunities, practical skills and workplace experience. Young people are involved in learning the art of small-batch coffee roasting, as well as developing skills in customer service, business and creativity.
The name Meraki comes from a Greek word meaning to put soul, creativity and love into your work, and that philosophy runs through everything the business does. Every cup of coffee supports a wider purpose, making this much more than an ordinary coffee stop.
I always enjoy discovering independent businesses when I travel. They offer a chance to slow down, take a break and experience a place beyond the landmarks that appear on every itinerary.
Then there was Abe's Bar-B-Q, one of Clarksdale's best-known longstanding restaurants.
Southern barbecue is an important part of the region's food culture, and trying local food is one of my favourite ways to experience a destination.
A visit to Abe’s Bar-B-Q in Clarksdale, Mississippi, is a chance to experience a little piece of authentic Mississippi Delta food history. Established in 1924 by Lebanese immigrant Abraham ‘Abe’ Davis, it is one of the oldest barbecue restaurants in the region and has been serving generations of locals and visitors for over a century.
Originally opening as the Bungalow Inn, the restaurant became Abe’s Bar-B-Q in 1960 when Abe’s son took over the business. Today, it is famous for its barbecue sandwiches, homemade sauce and Mississippi Delta hot tamales, reflecting the fascinating blend of cultural influences that shaped the region’s food traditions.
Located close to the legendary crossroads of Highways 49 and 61, associated with blues musician Robert Johnson and the folklore of selling his soul to the devil, Abe’s is as much a part of Clarksdale’s musical and cultural heritage as its food scene.
I tried the BBQ pork sandwich, served with its smoky, savoury flavours, alongside the opportunity to discover the restaurant’s famous Delta hot tamales – a local speciality with a fascinating history of its own. It was a delicious introduction to Southern comfort food and a reminder that the Mississippi Delta’s story is told through its food as much as its music.
Travel involves museums and historic landmarks, of course, but it also involves the everyday moments in between: deciding where to eat, finding a good cup of coffee and sitting down after a busy day of exploring.
And let's be honest, no matter how interested you are in history, there comes a point when lunch becomes a priority.
Two nights at the Governor's House: Our home in Clarksdale
For two nights, we were kindly invited to stay at the Governor's House in Clarksdale.
It was our base while we explored the town and the surrounding Mississippi Delta, giving us somewhere to return to after days spent learning about the blues and discovering the region's history.
I loved the feeling of waking up knowing we had more of the Delta to discover. There is something different about spending a couple of nights in a destination compared with arriving for a few hours, taking photographs and moving on.
You have time to absorb the atmosphere, think about what you have seen and appreciate the place beyond its most famous attractions.
And Clarksdale certainly gives you plenty to think about.
I kept coming back to the connection between the music I have loved since childhood and the landscape around me. The blues felt more personal when I was standing in the places associated with its history.
I found myself thinking about the musicians whose work had travelled across the world, the communities that shaped the genre and the difficult circumstances that formed part of its history.
There is beauty in the blues, but there is also pain, resilience and a story that deserves to be understood.
Our stay became part of that experience. It was somewhere to rest, reflect and prepare for another day of exploring.
When I look back on our time in Clarksdale, I remember the music, the landscape and the feeling of being somewhere I had wanted to experience for a long time. The Governor's House was part of that memory, and I am glad we had the opportunity to spend two nights there.
Visiting the Tennessee Williams Rectory Museum in Clarksdale was a fascinating opportunity to discover a different side of the Mississippi Delta's cultural heritage. Having spent so much time exploring the region's blues history, it was lovely to learn about its literary connections too.
What makes this museum particularly special is that it isn't housed in a purpose-built exhibition space; it occupies the four upstairs bedrooms of the former rectory of St George's Episcopal Church, where Tennessee Williams, born Thomas Lanier Williams, lived with his family. As I explored the building, I found it fascinating to think about the young Tom growing up in these very rooms, long before he became one of America's most celebrated playwrights.
His grandfather, Reverend Walter E. Dakin, was the church's rector between 1917 and 1932, and Clarksdale became an important part of Williams' childhood. I was particularly interested to discover how the people and places around this neighbourhood found their way into his imagination and eventually onto the stage. Even the neighbouring Cutrer Mansion inspired Belle Reve in A Streetcar Named Desire, while local residents and characters influenced several of his other works.
I loved how this small museum connects real places with such significant pieces of American literature. Standing in a building where a young boy once lived, knowing that his experiences in this corner of Mississippi would help shape plays such as The Glass Menagerie, Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and A Streetcar Named Desire, made the visit feel all the more meaningful.
It was a quieter, more reflective stop on my Mississippi journey, but one that reminded me that the Delta's cultural influence extends far beyond blues music. Its stories have also helped shape American theatre and literature, and I'm glad I had the opportunity to discover another piece of that history.
Riverside Hotel, Clarksdale: Where Blues History Comes Alive
Of all the places we visited in Clarksdale, the Riverside Hotel was one of the experiences that stayed with me. We were incredibly fortunate to be shown around by Manager and Tour Guide Justin Gates, whose personal connection to the building made the visit so much more meaningful. Rather than simply walking through an old hotel and looking at its history, we were hearing the stories from someone whose own family is part of that history.
Justin is the grandson of Frank “Rat” Ratliff and Joyce Ratliff, and his family has been instrumental in keeping the Riverside Hotel's legacy alive. His grandmother, Joyce, helped continue the work of preserving the hotel alongside her husband, Frank, after his mother, Z.L. Ratliff Hill, established it as a hotel in 1944.
Listening to Justin talk about his family, particularly his grandmother's connection to the building, gave me a real appreciation of how much love, dedication and responsibility goes into protecting a place like this. It isn't just a historic building to the Ratliff family; it is their heritage.
The story of the Riverside Hotel begins long before it became a hotel. Originally, the building operated as the G.T. Thomas Afro-American Hospital, which served the African American community during segregation. One of its most significant and heartbreaking connections is to Bessie Smith, known as the Empress of the Blues.
On 26 September 1937, following a car accident on Highway 61 outside Clarksdale, Bessie was taken to the hospital, where she died from her injuries. The room where she passed away has been preserved in her memory.
Credit: Bessie Smith - Wikipedia
Standing in that room was particularly moving. Bessie Smith was one of the most influential blues singers of her generation, with a voice that helped shape American music. To think that this was where her life ended, and to hear the story in the very building where it happened, was incredibly powerful. It brought a very human dimension to the history of the blues.
In 1944, Z.L. Ratliff Hill transformed the former hospital into the Riverside Hotel, creating a safe place for African American travellers and musicians visiting the Mississippi Delta. During the Jim Crow era, segregation meant that Black Americans could not freely access the same hotels, restaurants and facilities as white travellers. The Riverside became an important refuge, providing somewhere people could stay without facing the same barriers.
The hotel was included in the famous Negro Motorist Green Book, published between 1936 and 1966. The Green Book was an essential travel guide for African Americans, identifying hotels, restaurants, petrol stations and other businesses where they could safely visit during segregation. Learning about this made me reflect on something we often take for granted today: being able to travel freely and choose where to stay. For many people travelling through America at that time, finding somewhere safe to sleep was a serious concern.
The Riverside welcomed an extraordinary collection of musical talent over the years, including Muddy Waters, Howlin' Wolf, Duke Ellington, Ike Turner, John Lee Hooker, Sonny Boy Williamson II and Sam Cooke.
As someone who is a huge fan of Sam Cooke, discovering his connection to this hotel was particularly special. Knowing that an artist whose music I have listened to and loved spent time here made the experience feel much more personal. Sam Cooke was born in Clarksdale in 1931, so his connection to the city runs much deeper than simply passing through on tour.
What I found most special about our visit, though, was Justin himself. His storytelling brought the history to life in a way that no information board or guidebook could. You could hear how much the Riverside meant to him and his family. I felt privileged to be welcomed into a place with such a significant story, particularly when so much of its history is tied to the experiences of African Americans during segregation, the civil rights movement and the development of American music.
The Riverside Hotel is much more than a former hotel or a blues landmark. It represents Black entrepreneurship, family heritage, resilience and the importance of preserving stories that might otherwise be lost. It is now home to the Riverside Hotel Interpretive Center, the Living Blues and Civil Rights Museum, helping visitors understand its extraordinary past.
I left feeling genuinely moved and grateful that Justin had taken the time to show us around and share his family's story. It was one of those travel experiences that reminds you why it is so important to meet the people behind the places you visit. Clarksdale may be known as the home of the blues, but the Riverside Hotel tells a much bigger story about the people, struggles and achievements that shaped the Mississippi Delta.
Greenwood, Mississippi: Visiting the world of The Help
Greenwood was another important stop on our journey through Mississippi, and I was particularly excited about this part of the trip.
A little history of Greenwood, Mississippi
Greenwood sits in the heart of the Mississippi Delta, where the Yazoo and Tallahatchie rivers meet. Its story began in the 1830s as a small trading settlement known as Williams Landing, before being incorporated as Greenwood in 1844. The city was named after Greenwood Leflore, a Choctaw chief and prominent historical figure in Mississippi.
During the 19th and early 20th centuries, Greenwood became an important centre for the cotton industry. Its position along the Yazoo River and the arrival of the railways helped establish it as a major cotton shipping town. Downtown's Front Street became known as Cotton Row, lined with businesses connected to the trade. The wealth generated during this period helped shape the grand historic buildings and architecture that can still be seen around the city today.
Greenwood also played an important role in the American Civil Rights Movement. During the 1960s, it became a major centre for voter registration campaigns led by organisations including the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC). Activists faced arrests, intimidation and violence as African American residents fought for their right to vote and equality. Stokely Carmichael's famous 1966 Black Power speech was delivered on Broad Street.
Today, Greenwood is known for its blues heritage, historic architecture, Southern hospitality and distinctive Delta food culture. It is also home to important sites connected to the music legends and civil rights activists who helped shape American history.
For me, visiting Greenwood was about discovering all these different layers of Mississippi's story - from cotton and blues to literature, cinema and the struggle for civil rights.
Staying at The Alluvian and Dinner at Giardina's, Greenwood, Mississippi
Our time in Greenwood included a stay at The Alluvian Hotel, a beautiful boutique hotel right in the center of downtown. After days spent exploring the Mississippi Delta, discovering its blues heritage and learning about its fascinating history, it was lovely to have somewhere comfortable and welcoming to return to.
The Alluvian combines Southern hospitality with contemporary luxury. I particularly liked how the hotel reflects the character of the region through its interiors, artwork and attention to detail. The rooms are beautifully appointed, with luxurious linens, custom furnishings and spacious marble bathrooms. There is also an impressive spa and the nearby Viking Cooking School, making it much more than simply somewhere to spend the night.
The building has an interesting history of its own. Originally known as the Hotel Irving, it was built in 1917 by Joe Stein and named after his young son, Irving. It became an important part of Greenwood's downtown, eventually expanding to around 100 rooms during the 1940s. However, as travellers increasingly chose roadside motels, the hotel eventually closed and fell into disrepair during the 1980s.
Thankfully, its story didn't end there. Viking Range Corporation purchased the building in 2000 and undertook an extensive restoration, reopening it as The Alluvian in 2003. Today, it has 45 guest rooms, five suites and four lofts, bringing a historic Greenwood landmark back to life.
One of the advantages of staying here is having Giardina's Restaurant within the hotel, so we didn't have to venture far for dinner.
Giardina's is something of a Greenwood institution, having first opened in 1936 under the ownership of Joe Giardina. With its Italian-American roots, the restaurant has built a reputation for combining traditional Italian influences with Southern hospitality and Mississippi Delta cooking. Originally starting as a drive-up business on Park Avenue, it eventually developed into a full-service restaurant before becoming part of The Alluvian development.
The restaurant has a lovely atmosphere, feeling elegant without being overly formal. One of its most distinctive features is its private dining booths, which have become part of its identity. There are also fourteen booths alongside a larger dining room overlooking a courtyard.
When it came to ordering, I certainly didn't hold back! I started with a selection of appetisers, including fried green tomatoes, onion rings and fried olives. The fried green tomatoes are a Southern classic, particularly popular across Mississippi. Giardina's gives them an indulgent twist, serving them with jumbo lump crabmeat and warm comeback sauce.
The onion rings were another classic, made with colossal onions coated in tempura batter, while the fried olives offered something a little different, served with the restaurant's house ranch dip. I loved being able to try such a variety of flavours and textures.
For my main course, I chose the Giardina's Comeback Burger, which felt like a fitting choice in Mississippi, given the state's famous comeback sauce. It was a satisfying way to finish a meal that had already included plenty of tempting Southern-inspired flavours.
What I particularly enjoyed about Giardina's was the combination of its historic character, traditional dining atmosphere and menu. It felt like an experience in itself rather than simply somewhere to grab dinner.
Between the restoration of The Alluvian and the long-standing family story behind Giardina's, our stay gave us another insight into Greenwood beyond its famous blues connections. I loved discovering how the town has preserved and reinvented parts of its past, giving historic buildings and local businesses a new chapter.
It was a lovely place to stay, a memorable meal and the perfect way to round off our time exploring Greenwood and the Mississippi Delta.
Why visit Greenwood, Mississippi?
As a film fan, I love visiting locations associated with movies I enjoy. There is something rather surreal about seeing a place on screen and then standing in front of it yourself.
The Help, the 2011 film based on Kathryn Stockett's bestselling novel, was filmed in Mississippi, including Greenwood. The story follows Black domestic workers in 1960s Mississippi and a young white aspiring writer who decides to document their experiences of racism and inequality.
The film stars Viola Davis, Octavia Spencer, Emma Stone and Jessica Chastain, among others, and brought international attention to Greenwood's filming locations.
The Help is closely associated with Mississippi and explores the lives of African American domestic workers during the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s. Set primarily in Jackson, Mississippi, the story highlights racial segregation, discrimination and the inequalities experienced by Black women working in white households. It provides an important cultural backdrop to understanding Mississippi's history and the struggles for racial equality.
Greenwood was actually chosen as the main filming location because much of its historic architecture and neighbourhoods still resembled 1960s Jackson. Filming took place in the city during 2010, with local homes, streets, businesses and buildings transformed into locations for the film. Many of the original filming locations can still be visited today, including Aibileen's house and Hilly Holbrook's home.
Visitors can follow a self-guided driving tour to discover the places where Emma Stone, Viola Davis, Octavia Spencer and the rest of the cast brought the story to life. The film also brought considerable attention to Greenwood, putting this Mississippi Delta city on the map for film enthusiasts.
You can find details of the The Help self-guided tour in Greenwood.
I was genuinely excited to see some of those places for myself.
Inside Celia Foote's House – The Kimbrough Home, Greenwood
One of the most exciting highlights of our time in Greenwood was visiting the beautiful Kimbrough Home, which served as the house of Celia Foote, played by Jessica Chastain, in the 2011 film The Help. We were incredibly fortunate to be invited inside, as the property is a private residence and isn't normally open to the public. For a film fan, stepping inside a house recognised from the big screen was a real privilege.
But beyond its Hollywood connection, the house has a fascinating history of its own. It was built by Judge Allen McCaskill Kimbrough in the late 1800s or early 1900s. He moved to Greenwood from the Carrollton area around 1876 and married Mary Hunter Southworth in 1880. Together they had ten children. Their eldest daughter, Mary Craig Kimbrough, born in 1883, later married celebrated American writer Upton Sinclair and wrote a book called Southern Belle, which included memories of her family's life in Greenwood.
Perhaps the most remarkable part of the property's story is how close it came to being demolished. During a redevelopment project, the house was facing destruction until Aubrey, the wife of its eventual owner, stepped in and refused to let it disappear. She stood her ground, determined to save the beautiful building. The construction crew eventually agreed that she could have the house if she arranged for it to be moved out of their way. In 1976, the property was carefully relocated in pieces and saved for future generations.
Major renovations had previously taken place in 1908, including extensive artwork by Swiss artist Frederick Ruple. Much of this artwork can still be appreciated inside the property today.
As I walked through the rooms, I found myself thinking about the contrast between the fictional life of Celia Foote and the real families who had called this house home. It was fascinating to appreciate its original features and hear how a property with such a rich history had found a new lease of life through cinema.
Being welcomed inside a private home that has such an interesting past was an experience I won't forget.
It was much more than ticking off a filming location; it was discovering a piece of Greenwood's architectural and social history, and meeting the people who have helped preserve it.
Greenwood and Emmett Till: A history that cannot be ignored
Greenwood brought us face to face with one of the most painful chapters in American civil rights history.
We visited site of Bryant's Grocery in Money, Mississippi, the site associated with the events that led to the murder of Emmett Till.
In August 1955, Emmett, a 14-year-old African American boy from Chicago, was visiting relatives in Mississippi when he was accused of offending a white woman at a shop. He was abducted, tortured and murdered.
His body was recovered from the Tallahatchie River. His mother, Mamie Till-Mobley, made the courageous decision to hold an open-casket funeral, allowing the world to see the brutality inflicted on her son.
The photographs and reporting that followed helped expose the violence of American racism and became an important part of the history of the civil rights movement.
This was one of the hardest parts of the journey to process emotionally.
I found myself thinking repeatedly about Emmett's age. Fourteen is so young. He should have had his whole life ahead of him, worrying about school, friends and all the ordinary things that matter to a child.
Instead, his name became permanently associated with one of the most devastating examples of racial violence in modern American history.
It is difficult to reconcile the ordinary appearance of a rural landscape with the horrific events connected to it.
I don't want to pretend that standing at a historic site means I can fully understand what Emmett's family endured. I can't. But I do believe there is value in visiting, learning and making sure these stories are not forgotten.
Some places leave you with photographs you treasure. Others leave you with thoughts you carry home.
For me, Bryant's Grocery was the latter.
I think it is important that visitors approach places like this with respect. They are not simply attractions to tick off a list or backgrounds for social media photographs. They are places associated with real people whose lives were destroyed by racism and violence.
Learning about Emmett Till's story made the wider history of Mississippi feel more immediate and personal. It also reinforced why I believe travel writing should be willing to discuss difficult subjects honestly.
We should be able to appreciate a destination without pretending that its history is uncomplicated.
Jackson, Mississippi: Exploring the history of the civil rights movement
From the Delta, we travelled to Jackson, Mississippi's capital.
Jackson was one of the most significant parts of our journey because of its connection to the American civil rights movement.
The city was a centre of activism, resistance and organising during the struggle for racial equality. Its streets, museums and historic landmarks tell stories of people who challenged segregation and fought for rights that should never have been denied.
We had several days to explore, which allowed us to look beyond the headline attractions and discover more of Jackson's history and culture.
A little history of the Old Capitol Inn, Jackson, Mississippi
Our stay at the Old Capitol Inn in downtown Jackson offered another opportunity to experience Mississippi's history through its buildings. Although it is now a boutique hotel, the property has a fascinating past that dates back to 1952, when it was built as the Young Women's Christian Association (YWCA).
The building originally provided affordable, dormitory-style accommodation for young women who had moved to Jackson from smaller rural communities across Mississippi to find work. It was much more than somewhere to sleep, however. It featured a basketball court, which was also used for roller-skating and dancing, alongside an Olympic-sized swimming pool. Particularly significant was that the pool was reportedly the first integrated swimming pool in Mississippi, making the building an important part of the state's social history.
Over the years, the building also served as a hospital guest house and housed Catholic Charities. After standing empty for several years, it was purchased by local businessman and attorney Michael J. Malouf, who saw the potential to give it a new lease of life. Renovations began in May 1996, and the Old Capitol Inn welcomed its first guests in November that year.
Today, it is a 24-room boutique hotel, featuring a New Orleans-inspired courtyard garden, rooftop garden, restaurant and elegant event spaces. Its name comes from its proximity to Jackson's Old Capitol Museum, one of Mississippi's most historically significant buildings.
The Old Capitol Inn is a lovely example of how historic buildings can be given a second life while retaining their connection to the communities they once served. Its story also offers a glimpse into the changing social history of Jackson, from post-war opportunities for young working women to the city's modern hospitality scene.
An interesting nearby attraction: The Old Capitol Museum was completed in 1839 and served as Mississippi's state capitol until 1903. It witnessed significant moments in American history, including Mississippi's decision to secede from the Union in 1861 and the adoption of the state's 1868 and 1890 constitutions. Today, it is a restored museum dedicated to Mississippi's political and governmental history.
For more information, visit the Old Capitol Inn website.
Understanding the History of Mississippi, in Jackson
One of the most important stops during our time in Jackson was visiting the Museum of Mississippi History and the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. Located side by side in downtown Jackson, the two museums offer very different but complementary perspectives on the state's past.
Credit: Visit Jackson
Having spent several days exploring Clarksdale, Greenwood and the Mississippi Delta, discovering its blues heritage, historic buildings and the stories of the people who lived there, I was keen to understand how everything fitted into Mississippi's wider history.
Both museums opened on 9 December 2017 as part of Mississippi's bicentennial celebrations. The Museum of Mississippi History explores more than 15,000 years of the state's past, while the Civil Rights Museum focuses specifically on the struggles, sacrifices and achievements of African Americans in the fight for equality.
Museum of Mississippi History
The Museum of Mississippi History takes visitors on a journey through the people, events and cultural influences that have shaped the state. Its central theme, One Mississippi, Many Stories, recognises the different communities, cultures and experiences that make up Mississippi's identity.
Inside, the exhibitions are arranged chronologically, beginning with the First Peoples, whose communities inhabited the region thousands of years before European settlement. The galleries then explore Native American cultures, European exploration, the arrival of enslaved Africans and the development of the cotton industry, which became central to Mississippi's economy during the 19th century.
One of the most significant sections examines the Cotton Kingdom and the Civil War, explaining how slavery shaped the state's economy, society and political landscape. It also explores the consequences of the conflict and the challenges of Reconstruction following the abolition of slavery.
I found these exhibitions particularly moving. Reading about the treatment of enslaved African Americans and the inequalities that continued long after emancipation was difficult at times. It made me reflect on the suffering experienced by generations of people and the lasting consequences of discrimination and segregation.
The museum also contains an extraordinary collection of artefacts that help bring Mississippi's past to life. Among the highlights are a 500-year-old Native American dugout canoe, a historic 20-star American flag and a typewriter belonging to Mississippi-born author Eudora Welty.
Another fascinating section explores Mississippi's contribution to American music, particularly the blues. Having already visited the Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale, I loved seeing how the state's musical heritage was represented here. A recreated Delta juke joint allows visitors to experience the atmosphere of the informal music venues where blues musicians performed, often providing entertainment and a sense of community for African Americans living and working in the Delta.
It was especially interesting to connect these exhibits with the places we had already visited, including the Riverside Hotel in Clarksdale, where musicians such as Muddy Waters, Howlin' Wolf and Sam Cooke had connections. It reminded me how much of the music we listen to today has its roots in the experiences and creativity of people from this part of America.
The later galleries explore the Great Depression, the Second World War, the Civil Rights Movement and Mississippi's changing industries, communities and culture.
Mississippi Civil Rights Museum
Connected to the Museum of Mississippi History is the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum, and this was perhaps the most emotionally powerful part of our visit to Jackson.
While the neighbouring museum explores the wider history of the state, this museum focuses on the struggle for racial equality and the people who risked everything to challenge segregation and discrimination.
Its eight galleries take visitors through the history of African Americans in Mississippi, from slavery and the introduction of Jim Crow laws to the Civil Rights Movement of the 1940s, 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.
One of the most striking parts of the museum explores the lives and sacrifices of those who fought for equality. It tells the stories of prominent activists including Medgar Evers, Fannie Lou Hamer and Vernon Dahmer. Their courage helped challenge the systems that denied African Americans their basic rights, including the right to vote, education and equal treatment.
The story of Medgar Evers particularly stood out. He was a leading civil rights activist in Mississippi and was assassinated outside his Jackson home in June 1963. His murder became one of the defining moments of the Civil Rights Movement and highlighted the dangers faced by those campaigning for equality.
The galleries also document the Freedom Riders, including the mugshots of those arrested in Mississippi for challenging segregation on interstate buses. Seeing the photographs and learning about the violence, imprisonment and intimidation they faced made the history feel incredibly real. These weren't simply names in a history book; they were ordinary people who chose to stand up against injustice, often at enormous personal risk.
One of the most memorable spaces is the central gallery, This Little Light of Mine. At its heart is a dramatic illuminated sculpture that honours those who gave their lives during the Civil Rights Movement. As visitors gather around it, the light becomes brighter and the movement's song, This Little Light of Mine, grows stronger. I thought this was a particularly meaningful way of representing how individual acts of courage can come together to create lasting change.
The final gallery, Where Do We Go From Here?, encourages visitors to reflect on what they have learned and consider how the lessons of the Civil Rights Movement remain relevant in their own communities today.
How I felt visiting the two museums?
I came away from the two museums feeling genuinely moved, VERY EMOTIONAL, humbled and with a much deeper understanding of Mississippi. Some of what I saw and read was incredibly difficult to process, particularly the accounts of slavery (especially as I was born in Merseyside, and it's connection to slave trade history), racial segregation, violence and the treatment of African American communities.
It is one thing to learn about these events in history books, but quite another to stand in front of photographs, personal belongings and first-hand accounts that bring the experiences of real people to life.
What stayed with me most was the courage of those who fought for equality.
People who risked their freedom, their safety and, in some cases, their lives simply because they believed that everyone deserved the same basic rights. The stories of Medgar Evers, Fannie Lou Hamer and the Freedom Riders were particularly powerful. I found myself thinking about how different life would be today without the determination of those who refused to accept injustice.
Having travelled through the Mississippi Delta, visited the Riverside Hotel in Clarksdale, learned about the Green Book and explored the places connected to the blues, the museums gave everything an additional layer of meaning. I began to understand not just the history of the places we had visited, but the experiences of the people who had lived there.
I was also struck by how important it is to preserve these stories for future generations. History isn't always comfortable, and I don't think it should be. Understanding the difficult chapters is just as important as celebrating a destination's achievements.
As we made our way out of the museum, I had the absolute privilege of meeting Reena Evers, the daughter of civil rights leader Medgar Evers. It was a moment that meant an enormous amount to me, particularly after spending time inside the museum learning about her father's life, his courage and the tragic circumstances surrounding his assassination.
I shared with her that my birthday, 12th June, sadly falls on the same date as her father's assassination in 1963. I told her that, having learned so much about him and been so deeply affected by his story, I will always take a moment on my birthday to remember him, reflect on his life and say a prayer for him.
It felt incredibly special to be able to share that with his daughter, and I was genuinely honoured to meet her. I left feeling emotional but also immensely proud to have had that opportunity. Medgar Evers' story is one that will stay with me, and I know that every 12th June I will remember him, not simply for the tragic way his life ended, but for everything he stood for, the courage he showed and the legacy he left behind. It was one of those unexpected encounters while travelling that becomes so much more meaningful than you could ever have anticipated.
Travel isn't always about beautiful scenery, exciting attractions or ticking places off a list. Sometimes it is about listening to who you meet, what you learn, understanding and allowing yourself to be challenged. These two museums did exactly that, and they will stay with me long after our journey through Mississippi.
Exploring Jackson: From Fondren to the historic Greyhound Bus Station
Our time in Jackson was not spent entirely in museums.
We explored neighbourhoods including Fondren and Belhaven, visited historic landmarks and followed parts of the Mississippi Freedom Trail.
We visited Fondren, one of Jackson's most vibrant and creative neighbourhoods. Just north of downtown, Fondren has a distinctly independent feel, with colourful murals, quirky boutiques, vintage shops, art galleries, coffee shops and locally owned restaurants. It has become a popular destination for people looking to experience a different side of Mississippi's capital, away from the traditional historic attractions.
I loved its relaxed atmosphere, colourful streets and independent spirit. It felt like a neighbourhood full of personality, where local creativity and Southern hospitality come together. It was lovely to spend time wandering around, discovering little shops and soaking up the atmosphere.
On a driving tour of Jackson we stopped by the historic Greyhound Bus Station, associated with the Freedom Rides of 1961.
The Freedom Riders challenged segregation in interstate bus travel and facilities. They faced arrests and violent attacks as they tested whether federal desegregation rulings would be enforced.
We visited the Old Capitol Building area, the Alamo Theatre and locations associated with H.C. Spier and Jackson's wider musical history.
These sites helped connect the story of the civil rights movement with the city's cultural heritage.
The Mississippi Freedom Trail commemorates people, places and events connected with the struggle for equality across the state. It is a reminder that the movement was not confined to one city or one famous speech. It was a struggle involving communities throughout Mississippi.
What I liked about exploring Jackson was that we were not only looking backwards.
We explored Belhaven, one of Jackson's most charming and historic neighbourhoods. Known for its beautiful tree-lined streets, historic homes and welcoming community atmosphere, Belhaven has a character quite different from downtown Jackson. Its architecture includes beautiful examples of Colonial Revival, Tudor Revival and Craftsman-style houses, many dating back to the early 20th century.
The neighbourhood is also closely connected to Mississippi's literary heritage, having been home to celebrated writers including Eudora Welty, whose former residence is now a museum open to visitors. I loved the quieter, residential feel of Belhaven, with its leafy streets, beautiful properties and sense of history. It was lovely to discover another side of Jackson and see how the city's cultural heritage extends beyond its museums and downtown attractions.
We were seeing a living city, with neighbourhoods, independent businesses, restaurants and cultural spaces. Historic buildings exist within real communities. People live and work around them, and those communities should be part of the story too.
Eating Our Way Around Jackson, Mississippi: Southern Breakfast, Lunch, Bowling and BBQ
One of the things I loved about our time in Jackson was getting to experience its food scene. From traditional Southern breakfast dishes and relaxed lunchtime dining to bowling, barbecue and an evening out, we certainly managed to fit plenty into one day. Jackson has a diverse food culture, with traditional Mississippi cooking sitting alongside contemporary American and international influences. Here is a little of what we ate and the stories behind the places we visited.
Breakfast at Hen & Egg
We started the morning at Hen & Egg, a popular breakfast and lunch restaurant in downtown Jackson, located inside the historic Sun-n-Sand Motor Hotel building.
I opted for a chicken biscuit, a classic Southern breakfast choice. The restaurant's menu features its Spicy Honey Chicken Biscuit, served with early potatoes. It is a lovely example of Southern comfort food, bringing together crispy chicken, a traditional buttermilk biscuit and a touch of sweetness and spice from the honey.
Hen & Egg has an interesting story behind both its food and its location. The restaurant was created by Mississippi chef Nick Wallace, whose cooking is inspired by the food traditions passed down through his family, particularly his grandmothers. The name Hen & Egg reflects the relationship between his
grandmother, the 'hen' who passed down her knowledge, and Nick, the 'egg' who learned from her.
His grandmother taught him how to make jams, preserves and sauces, as well as traditional family meals. Those influences are reflected throughout the menu, which combines familiar Southern favourites with modern techniques and flavours.
The building itself has an equally interesting history. The Sun-n-Sand Motor Hotel opened in 1960 and became a well-known gathering place for Mississippi politicians, legislators, lobbyists and civil rights activists. It operated until 2001 before closing and falling into disrepair. The state purchased the property in 2019, and following restoration work, the surviving part of the hotel was given a new purpose. Hen & Egg opened in August 2025, helping bring another piece of Jackson's heritage back into use.
I particularly liked the idea of eating somewhere that celebrates both Mississippi's culinary traditions and its history. It was a lovely way to start the day, and my chicken biscuit was a fitting introduction to Southern breakfast culture.
Lunch at The Iron Horse Grill
For lunch, we headed to The Iron Horse Grill, one of downtown Jackson's most recognisable restaurants. This is somewhere with a fascinating industrial history, as well as a menu full of Southern and Tex-Mex-inspired favourites.
The building originally opened in 1906 as the Armour Smokehouse, serving as an industrial facility associated with the meatpacking business. It later became the original Iron Horse Grill, opening as a restaurant in 1986. Unfortunately, the building suffered devastating fires in 1998 and 1999 and remained abandoned for years.
After a major restoration project, the restaurant returned in 2014, giving this historic Jackson landmark a new lease of life.
Inside, the industrial character of the building remains part of its appeal, with exposed brick, iron features, a spacious dining area and a stage for live entertainment. It is more than just a restaurant, too. Upstairs, visitors can discover the Mississippi Music Experience, featuring memorabilia and lifelike figures celebrating some of the state's famous musicians.
When it came to lunch, I chose the fried chicken wrap. According to the menu, it is made with grilled or fried chicken, lettuce, tomato and fresh avocado, hand-rolled and served with chipotle ranch dressing and a side salad whilst listening to live music.
I liked having something a little lighter for lunch after breakfast, while still enjoying the flavours of American restaurant food. The combination of chicken, avocado and chipotle ranch makes for a satisfying lunchtime option.
What I particularly enjoyed about The Iron Horse Grill was the opportunity to combine lunch with a little local history. Jackson has such an important musical heritage, and it was interesting to discover another venue celebrating Mississippi's contribution to American music.
An Evening at Highball Lanes
After a day exploring Jackson, we headed to Highball Lanes in the Fondren neighbourhood for an evening of bowling.
Highball Lanes is not your traditional bowling alley. It combines a contemporary Southern restaurant, bar and ten-lane bowling centre, creating a lively social space where you can eat, drink and enjoy a game.
The venue opened in January 2022 and is part of The Block, a wider entertainment development in Fondren that also includes the historic Capri Theatre, The Pearl Tiki Bar, The Station and Fondren Yard.
There is an interesting history to the surrounding buildings, too. The storefronts housing Highball Lanes, The Capri and The Pearl were originally constructed in 1939. The Highball Lanes premises previously housed a paint shop and, at one point, the last cash-and-carry Jitney Jungle grocery store.
The development has helped give this historic part of Fondren a new lease of life, bringing together dining, entertainment and leisure in one location.
We enjoyed some bowling during the evening, which was a lovely opportunity to do something different after spending so much time visiting museums and historic attractions.
Of course, we couldn't leave without having something to eat. I opted for fried chicken and fries, a classic American comfort-food combination. Highball's food offering includes burgers, chicken dishes, sandwiches, shareable appetisers and Southern-inspired plates, so there is plenty to choose from.
I loved the relaxed atmosphere and the fact that we could enjoy dinner alongside an activity. Sometimes it is nice to put the sightseeing aside for a few hours and simply have some fun.
Highball Lanes was a great addition to our Jackson experience, particularly as it gave us the chance to explore another part of Fondren.
Dinner at The Backyard at Boondocks
We rounded off our food adventures with dinner at The Backyard at Boondocks, in Jackson's Belhaven neighbourhood.
Boondocks has its roots in South Mississippi, where the original family business, Boondocks BBQ, opened in Benndale in 2013. Founded as a family venture, it built its reputation around traditional slow-smoked barbecue and Southern hospitality. The business subsequently expanded to Wiggins before opening its third location, Boondocks JXN, in Jackson.
The Jackson restaurant brings that family barbecue heritage into a relaxed neighbourhood setting, with The Backyard providing an outdoor space for dining, socialising and events. There is also live music, DJs, karaoke and open-mic entertainment on selected evenings.
The menu is centred around smoked meats and traditional barbecue favourites. There are ribs, brisket, pulled pork, smoked chicken and sausage, alongside wings, tacos, loaded fries and other sharing dishes.
One of the more interesting things about the menu is the way it combines traditional Mississippi barbecue with more contemporary casual dining. You can choose from barbecue plates, smoked meat combinations and dishes designed for sharing.
For dinner, I chose a Birria quesadilla. The menu offers a choice of barbecue pulled pork or chicken, with cheddar cheese, served alongside lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream and jalapeños. It was a lovely way to finish the day, combining familiar Tex-Mex flavours with the restaurant's barbecue influences.
I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere at Boondocks. After a day of exploring Jackson, visiting museums and discovering the city's history, it was nice to end the evening somewhere informal, with good food and a welcoming neighbourhood feel.
A Taste of Jackson
Looking back, one of the things I enjoyed most about our time in Jackson was discovering just how varied its food scene is. From a traditional chicken biscuit at breakfast to a chicken wrap for lunch, bowling with chicken and fries, and finishing with a barbecue quesadilla, we experienced several different sides of Mississippi dining.
Each place also had its own story. Hen & Egg brought together family food traditions and the restoration of a historic hotel. The Iron Horse Grill celebrated Jackson's industrial past and musical heritage. Highball Lanes gave us a fun evening in the creative Fondren neighbourhood, while Boondocks introduced us to a family barbecue business with roots in South Mississippi.
Food is such an important part of understanding a destination. It gives you the chance to meet people, discover local traditions and experience everyday life beyond the usual tourist attractions. Jackson certainly gave us plenty to taste, explore and remember.
Smith Robertson Museum and Cultural Center, Jackson
Visiting the Smith Robertson Museum and Cultural Center was another important stop during our time in Jackson. Housed in what was originally Jackson's first public school for African American children, the museum tells the story of Black Mississippians through history, art, photography and personal artefacts.
The building dates back to 1894, when it opened as a school for African American children during segregation. In 1903, it was named after Smith Robertson, Jackson's first African American alderman.
Robertson had been born into slavery before becoming a successful businessman and an important figure in the city's political history. The original wooden school building was rebuilt in brick in 1909 and later remodelled in the Art Deco style in 1929. The school closed in 1971, and following a community campaign to save the historic building, it reopened as a museum in 1984.
Inside, the exhibitions explore the African American experience in Mississippi, from slavery and emancipation to education, culture, entrepreneurship and the Civil Rights Movement. One particularly significant exhibition explores the transatlantic slave trade, including a model slave ship that helps visitors understand the horrific conditions endured by enslaved Africans during the journey to America.
Other displays explore the Great Migration, when large numbers of African Americans left the rural South between 1915 and 1940 in search of better opportunities in northern cities. There are also exhibitions dedicated to the historic Farish Street District, Mississippi's historically Black colleges and universities, African American artists and the achievements of Black doctors.
I was particularly interested in the museum's connection to some of Mississippi's most influential figures. Author Richard Wright, best known for Black Boy and Native Son, was a former pupil of the school. The museum also has a significant exhibition dedicated to civil rights leader Medgar Evers, exploring his life, activism and assassination. Having already learned so much about Medgar and met his daughter during our visit to the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum, it was especially meaningful to encounter his story again in this setting.
I found this museum particularly thought-provoking because it tells the story of African American history through the experiences of the people who lived it. There is something powerful about visiting a building that was once a school for Black children during segregation and understanding that education itself was not equally accessible to everyone.
I found myself reflecting on how important education, opportunity and representation are, and how many generations had to fight for things that we might take for granted today. The exhibits about slavery and the Great Migration were especially difficult, but I also loved seeing the achievements, creativity and contributions of Black Mississippians celebrated.
Having already visited the Museum of Mississippi History and the Civil Rights Museum, I felt this visit added another important dimension to my understanding of Jackson. It brought the history closer to the local community, showing how national events affected ordinary families, schools, businesses and neighbourhoods.
I left feeling humbled and grateful for the opportunity to learn more. What struck me was that this building itself is part of the story: a place that began as a school, survived decades of social change and was saved by people who recognised the importance of protecting its history. It is a reminder that preserving heritage is about much more than saving old buildings; it is about making sure the voices and experiences of the people who came before us are not forgotten.
Editorial note: The museum has been undergoing building maintenance planning in 2026, so check directly with the museum before visiting to confirm access to all galleries.
The Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home
Of all the places we visited in Jackson, the Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home National Monument was one of the most meaningful and emotional. Having already learned about Medgar Evers at the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum, I was keen to visit the actual family home where he and his wife, Myrlie, lived and where his life was tragically taken.
The house is located in the historic Elraine neighbourhood of Jackson, a community originally developed for middle-class African American families. Built in 1956, it is a modest three-bedroom ranch-style property, but its significance in American history is enormous. Today, it is preserved by the National Park Service as a National Monument, commemorating the lives and work of two of Mississippi's most important civil rights activists.
Medgar Evers was born in Decatur, Mississippi, in 1925. After serving in the United States Army during the Second World War, he returned home determined to challenge racial inequality. In 1955, he became Mississippi's first field secretary for the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP). His work involved organising voter registration campaigns, investigating racial violence, campaigning against segregation and helping African Americans challenge discrimination.
His wife, Myrlie Evers, was equally important to the movement. While Medgar was often the public face of the NAACP's work, Myrlie managed the Jackson field office, wrote speeches, organised meetings and supported other civil rights workers. Their family home effectively became an extension of the NAACP office, with activists regularly visiting and important conversations taking place around the kitchen table.
What makes the house particularly significant is that it was also where the family lived under constant threat. Medgar had received numerous death threats because of his work, and the family had to take extraordinary precautions to protect themselves and their three children. They even taught the children to crawl along the floor to the bathroom if they heard suspicious noises, as it was considered one of the safest places in the house.
On 12 June 1963, Medgar was assassinated in the carport of his home, shot in the back as he returned from an NAACP meeting. He was just 37 years old. His murder shocked the United States and became an important catalyst in the growing movement for civil rights, helping build momentum towards the Civil Rights Act of 1964.
His killer, Byron De La Beckwith, was not convicted until 1994, following decades of legal battles and two earlier trials that ended without a conviction. Myrlie never gave up seeking justice for her husband.
Learning from the National Park Service Rangers
One of the things that made our visit particularly special was having the opportunity to learn about the house and the Evers family's story from the National Park Service park rangers.
I really appreciated the time they took to explain the history, share information and help us understand the significance of the property. Rather than simply looking at a historic building, we were learning about the people who had lived there, the dangers they faced and the extraordinary work they carried out from their own home.
The rangers helped bring the history to life, explaining the layout of the house, the security precautions the family had taken and how their everyday family life existed alongside the constant threats surrounding Medgar's activism.
It was particularly powerful to think about how this ordinary family home became such an important place in the American Civil Rights Movement. It was somewhere children played, meals were prepared and family life continued, but it was also a place where people gathered to organise, discuss and campaign for equality.
The National Park Service took over the property in 2020, recognising its importance as a place of national historical significance. Preserving it means future generations can learn about the Evers family and the sacrifices they made.
The influence on those who visit?
I found visiting the home incredibly emotional. Having learned about Medgar's life, his work and his assassination in the museum, standing outside the actual house where it happened made everything feel much more real.
There is something very different about reading a historical account and then standing in the place where those events unfolded. It made me think about Myrlie and their three children, and how frightening everyday life must have been for a family living under such constant threats.
I was particularly struck by the fact that Medgar continued his work despite knowing the dangers. He was campaigning for things that should never have been denied to anyone: equality, education, the right to vote and the freedom to live without discrimination.
I also found myself thinking about Myrlie's strength. Her contribution to the movement deserves just as much recognition, and visiting their family home helped me appreciate how much she did behind the scenes while raising their children and supporting her husband's work.
The visit was especially personal for me because my own birthday falls on 12 June, the anniversary of Medgar's assassination. I had already shared this with his daughter, Reena Evers, when I had the privilege of meeting her after visiting the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. I explained that, having learned so much about her father's life, I would always take a moment on my birthday to remember him and say a prayer for him.
Standing at the home made that connection feel even more significant. I know that 12 June will never quite feel like an ordinary birthday for me again. I will remember Medgar, his courage, his sacrifice and the legacy he left behind.
I left feeling humbled, emotional and incredibly grateful to the park rangers for helping us understand the history of this remarkable family. It was not simply a visit to a historic house; it was an opportunity to learn about two people who dedicated their lives to making America a fairer place.
For me, this was one of the most important stops in Jackson. It reminded me why we travel to learn, not just to see. Some places stay with you because of their beauty, while others stay with you because of the stories they tell. The Medgar and Myrlie Evers home will certainly stay with me.
Their story deserves to be told, remembered and passed on to future generations. I would really LOVE to continue to write about Medgar and The Evers family for years to come.
Visitor note: Check the latest National Park Service visitor information before visiting. Access arrangements and tour availability can change, and visitors should respect the privacy of people living in the surrounding neighbourhood.
Hal & Mal's: The night I sang live in Jackson
One of the most unexpected highlights of the entire trip happened at Hal & Mal's in Jackson.
I've loved blues, Motown and country music since childhood, and I spent more than ten years singing in a choir when I was younger. Music has always been a part of my life, even when I haven't been the person holding the microphone.
So when the opportunity arose to sing live at Hal & Mal's, I knew I couldn't let it pass me by.
I sang Ain't No Sunshine with Yolanda from Visit Jackson.
I will admit that the opportunity meant a great deal to me.
I had spent the trip learning about the history of the blues, travelling through the Delta and discovering more about the musical traditions that have influenced artists around the world.
To find myself singing live with my new friend Yolanda in Jackson, during that journey, felt like one of those moments when different parts of your life suddenly come together.
I wasn't there as a professional singer. I was there as someone who loves music, who had travelled a long way to learn more about its roots and who was lucky enough to be given an opportunity to get up and sing.
I could easily have talked myself out of it. It would have been much easier to stay in my seat, watch everyone else and tell myself that perhaps I would do it another time.
But I didn't.
And I'm so glad I said yes.
I had the opportunity to sing on the same stage as blues legend Bobby Rush, which made the experience even more special.
I can't really explain how it felt to be standing there, singing a song I loved, in a place connected to the musical culture I had been exploring throughout the trip.
There was excitement, a little disbelief and a huge amount of gratitude.
Travel often gives us opportunities we couldn't have planned, even if we had tried. Sometimes the most memorable moments are the ones that happen because we say yes when a chance presents itself.
For me, singing at Hal & Mal's was one of those moments.
I will remember that night for a very long time.
Blue Monday at Hal & Mal's
If you want to experience authentic live blues in the state that helped shape this hugely influential musical genre, this is a wonderful place to spend an evening.
Hal & Mal's is itself a Jackson institution. Opened in 1985 by brothers Harold (Hal) and Malcolm (Mal) White, the venue is housed in a historic former freight depot building on Commerce Street. Music has always been at the heart of its identity, with legendary performers including Albert King, B.B. King, Willie Dixon, Otis Clay and James Brown having connections to its stage. In 2020, the venue received a Keeping the Blues Alive Award from the Blues Foundation, recognising its contribution to preserving and promoting blues music.
What is Blue Monday?
Blue Monday is a weekly live blues session organised by the Central Mississippi Blues Society, an organisation established in 2006 to support musicians, promote blues education and keep the music alive across the region.
Held in Hal & Mal's Red Room, the event has been running for nearly 20 years and brings together professional musicians, local performers and enthusiastic visitors.
What makes it particularly special is that it isn't simply a concert where you sit back and watch. There is an opportunity for musicians to sign up and join the band on stage. Established performers and newcomers can share the microphone, play alongside the house band and become part of the evening.
The Blue Monday Band typically takes to the stage at around 8.30pm, with the evening providing opportunities for other musicians to join in. You never quite know who might perform or what musical surprises are in store. Multi-Grammy-winning blues musician Bobby Rush has even signed up to perform.
The atmosphere
What I particularly love about the idea of Blue Monday is that it celebrates blues as a living musical tradition rather than something preserved only in museums. Mississippi has such an extraordinary musical history, and nights like this help ensure that the next generation of musicians can continue to learn, perform and share it.
The Red Room provides an intimate setting for live music, bringing musicians and audiences together in a way that feels personal and welcoming. Food and drinks are also available from Hal & Mal's, so you can enjoy an evening of Southern hospitality alongside the music.
For me, an evening like this is an important part of understanding Jackson. We had spent time visiting museums, learning about the Civil Rights Movement and discovering the history of the Mississippi Delta. Experiencing live blues provided another connection to the culture and creativity that make this part of America so distinctive.
Blue Monday takes place every Monday, generally from 7pm until 11pm. The current Visit Jackson listing advertises admission at $10, although prices and arrangements can change.
Blue Monday is not just another live music night. It is an opportunity to experience Mississippi blues being passed from one generation of musicians to another, right in the state where so much of this music was born.
What Mississippi taught me about travel
Before visiting, I knew Mississippi had a complicated history. I had read about the civil rights movement, listened to the blues and understood that the state occupied an important place in American history.
But reading about something and standing in the places where it happened are two very different experiences.
Travelling through Clarksdale, Greenwood and Jackson made the connections between music, race, culture and memory feel much more tangible.
The blues was no longer simply a genre I loved. It became a way of thinking about the lives of the people who created it.
The civil rights movement was no longer just a chapter in a history book. It was a story attached to real houses, streets, schools, shops and families.
And the food was not simply a list of things to try. It became another way of experiencing the people and communities that make Mississippi what it is.
There were moments when I felt moved, moments when I felt angry about the injustice people had endured, and moments when I was simply grateful to be there and able to learn.
I don't think a destination has to be perfect to be worth visiting. Nor do I think we should avoid difficult histories because they make us uncomfortable.
The more important question is how we approach those places.
Do we arrive expecting a simplified story? Do we treat painful history as an attraction? Or do we take the time to listen, learn and acknowledge the experiences of people whose lives were shaped by events that we may never fully understand?
For me, responsible travel means trying to do the latter.
That does not mean pretending to be an expert after a few days in a destination. I am not. It means being curious, asking questions, reading beyond the most convenient version of a story and being willing to recognise when there is more to learn.
Mississippi reminded me how much there is to discover when you look beyond the obvious.
Planning a trip to Mississippi from the UK
If our journey has inspired you to explore Mississippi, here are a few practical things to consider.
How many days do you need?
For a trip focused on Clarksdale, Greenwood and Jackson, I would allow several days, maybe 2 to 3 in each place (including time to travel to each place) rather than trying to fit everything into a single weekend.
Our itinerary showed how much there is to explore in each place, and driving time needs to be factored into your plans.
Give Clarksdale time for its blues museums, historic sites and live music. Allow time in Greenwood for the The Help filming locations and the history associated with Emmett Till. In Jackson, make space for the civil rights museums, historic landmarks, food and cultural attractions.
My advice is to build your route around the experiences that matter most to you rather than trying to see every possible landmark.
When is the best time to visit?
We travelled in October 2026, during autumn.
Spring and autumn are generally attractive seasons for exploring the Deep South, although weather varies and October can still be warm. Check the forecast for your travel dates and remember that conditions can differ between the Delta and the state's cities.
It is also worth checking local events and festivals before booking, particularly if you want to experience live blues music.
Getting to Mississippi from the UK
For our trip, I travelled from London Heathrow via Atlanta before connecting to Memphis, Tennessee. The transatlantic flight was operated by Virgin Atlantic, with the onward connection on Delta Air Lines.
Memphis was our arrival point before travelling into Mississippi.
Depending on your itinerary, it is worth comparing flights into Memphis with options through Jackson or other regional airports. The best route will depend on flight prices, driving arrangements and where you want to begin and end your trip.
For a journey covering several towns, I would plan the transport and route before booking accommodation.
Organising your Mississippi trip with a tour operator
If you would prefer not to organise every detail yourself, two UK operators worth exploring are Journeyscape and Freedom Destinations.
Journeyscape offers tailor-made holidays in the American Deep South, with opportunities to combine music heritage, historic destinations and experiences across the region.
Explore Journeyscape's Deep South holidays for ideas.
Freedom Destinations offers holidays and fly-drive itineraries in Mississippi and the wider American South.
Browse Freedom Destinations' Mississippi holidays for inspiration.
If you want to follow a route similar to ours, ask about including Clarksdale, Greenwood and Jackson, and specify the blues and civil rights sites you most want to visit. Standard itineraries may not include every stop featured in this article, so it is worth checking what can be arranged.
Accessibility and practical considerations
As someone who writes about accessible travel, I am always thinking about how people experience a destination in practice, not just how it looks in photographs.
Mississippi's historic sites vary in their facilities, layout and visitor arrangements. Older buildings, outdoor landmarks and rural locations may present different challenges from modern museums.
If you have mobility, sensory or other access requirements, contact attractions before travelling. Ask about step-free access, parking, accessible toilets, seating, walking distances and whether tours can accommodate your needs.
The Mississippi Civil Rights Museum visitor information includes details about accessible parking, while the National Park Service visitor information for the Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home explains access and tour arrangements.
I would also recommend building flexibility into your days. Museums, outdoor sites and busy itineraries can be tiring, particularly when you are balancing driving, walking and emotionally demanding experiences.
A little extra planning can make a significant difference to how much you enjoy the trip.
My final thoughts: Why Mississippi will stay with me
I came to Mississippi because of its music, its history and the opportunity to explore a part of the American South I wanted to understand better.
I left with memories of Clarksdale's blues heritage, the weight of the history surrounding Greenwood, the museums and landmarks of Jackson, the food we shared and a night singing on stage that I could never have planned.
I also left with a stronger appreciation of how closely a place's cultural identity can be connected to its most difficult history.
Mississippi has given the world music that continues to influence artists across generations. It has also witnessed terrible injustice, and its civil rights history deserves to be approached with honesty rather than reduced to a convenient tourist narrative.
Both things are true.
You can admire the music without romanticising the circumstances in which it developed. You can enjoy the hospitality without pretending that the state's history is uncomplicated. And you can visit its landmarks while remembering that the people behind those stories were real human beings, not simply names on plaques.
For me, that is what made this journey so worthwhile.
It wasn't just about seeing somewhere new. It was about understanding a little more, listening a little harder and coming home with questions I had not thought to ask before.
Some of my favourite memories are the ones that made me smile: seeing the Kimbrough Home because of my love of The Help, discovering the places associated with the blues, enjoying Southern food and singing Ain't No Sunshine live at Hal & Mal's.
Other memories are much harder to put into words. Standing at Bryant's Grocery and learning more about Emmett Till's story was a reminder of how much pain and injustice sit within Mississippi's history.
Those experiences belong together in my account of the trip. They are part of what makes this place so complex and why I think it deserves to be explored with curiosity, care and an open mind.
If you are considering a trip to the Deep South, I would encourage you to look beyond the obvious destinations and give Mississippi a chance.
Go for the music. Explore the history. Visit the filming locations if, like me, you love seeing places from the big screen. Eat the catfish, talk to the people you meet and leave yourself enough time to take it all in.
And if you get the chance to sing on a stage in Jackson, say yes.
You never know which moments will become the memories you treasure most.
Mississippi gave me plenty to think about, plenty to write about and a few experiences I will never forget.
And somewhere between the Delta roads, the historic landmarks, the chicken biscuits and that night at Hal & Mal's, it found a place in my heart.
Have you visited Mississippi, or is it somewhere you'd love to explore? I'd love to hear your thoughts!
This article reflects my personal experiences and observations during an October 2026 trip through Mississippi. Visitor arrangements, opening hours and travel information can change, so please check official sources before visiting.
What do you think? Do you think you will still visit Mississippi?
Find out more at Visit Mississippi website.
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